Brake Line Installation Guide - Safety-Critical Installation

Complete guide for installing braided stainless steel brake lines. This is safety-critical work - follow all procedures carefully.

⚠️ SAFETY WARNING

Brake system work is safety-critical. Improper installation can cause brake failure, serious injury, or death. If you're not experienced with brake systems, hire a qualified professional.

Before You Start - Requirements

Legal Requirements

• ⚠️ Brake lines must meet DOT/ADR standards
• ⚠️ Use only approved brake line materials
• ⚠️ Proper flaring tools required for hard lines
• ⚠️ System must be properly bled before use
• ⚠️ Professional inspection recommended

Tools Required

• Brake line wrenches (flare nut wrenches)
• Torque wrench
• Brake bleeding kit or vacuum pump
• Catch container for old brake fluid
• Clean rags
• Safety glasses and gloves
• Jack and jack stands

Materials Needed

• Braided stainless steel brake lines (correct length)
• AN fittings or banjo fittings (as required)
• New crush washers (for banjo fittings)
• DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid (check vehicle specs)
• Brake cleaner

Brake Line Types

Braided Stainless Steel Lines

• ✅ Improved pedal feel - Less expansion under pressure
• ✅ Longer lifespan - Won't crack like rubber
• ✅ Better performance - Consistent brake response
• ✅ Corrosion resistant - Stainless steel construction
• ⚠️ Must be DOT/ADR approved for road use

AN Fittings vs Banjo Fittings

AN Fittings:

• Reusable and adjustable
• Common in race applications
• Requires AN-compatible calipers/master cylinder
• Typically -3AN size for brake lines

Banjo Fittings:

• OEM-style connection
• Works with stock brake components
• Requires new crush washers each time
• Common sizes: M10 x 1.0, M10 x 1.25

Installation Steps

Step 1: Preparation

1. Park on level ground and engage parking brake
2. Loosen wheel lug nuts
3. Safely raise and support vehicle on jack stands
4. Remove wheels for access
5. Clean brake components with brake cleaner

Step 2: Remove Old Brake Lines

1. Place catch container under brake line connection
2. Use flare nut wrench to loosen fittings
3. Remove old brake line
4. Plug or cap open brake line ports immediately
5. Inspect caliper and master cylinder threads

Step 3: Install New Brake Lines

1. Route new brake line following original path
2. Ensure adequate clearance from suspension and steering
3. Check clearance through full suspension travel
4. Verify no contact with sharp edges or heat sources

Step 4: Connect Fittings

For Banjo Fittings:

1. Install NEW crush washers on both sides of banjo bolt
2. Position banjo fitting on caliper/master cylinder
3. Thread banjo bolt by hand first
4. Torque to specification (typically 18-22 Nm)
5. Do NOT reuse old crush washers

For AN Fittings:

1. Thread AN fitting by hand until snug
2. Use two wrenches (one on fitting, one on adapter)
3. Tighten to proper torque specification
4. Verify fitting orientation is correct

Step 5: Secure Brake Lines

1. Use proper brake line clips or separators
2. Ensure lines don't contact suspension or steering
3. Check clearance through full steering lock
4. Verify clearance through full suspension travel
5. Lines should not be stretched or kinked

Step 6: Bleed Brake System

1. Fill master cylinder with fresh brake fluid
2. Start with wheel furthest from master cylinder
3. Attach bleeding kit or vacuum pump
4. Open bleeder valve and pump brake pedal
5. Close bleeder before pedal returns to top
6. Repeat until no air bubbles appear
7. Move to next wheel and repeat
8. Top up master cylinder frequently

Step 7: Final Checks

1. Check all fittings are tight
2. Verify master cylinder is full
3. Pump brake pedal - should be firm
4. Check for leaks at all connections
5. Test brakes at low speed before road use

Torque Specifications

Banjo Bolts

• M10 x 1.0: 18-22 Nm (13-16 ft-lbs)
• M10 x 1.25: 18-22 Nm (13-16 ft-lbs)
• M12 x 1.0: 25-30 Nm (18-22 ft-lbs)

AN Fittings

• -3AN: 60-80 in-lbs (7-9 Nm)
• -4AN: 80-100 in-lbs (9-11 Nm)

Important: Always use two wrenches when tightening brake fittings to prevent twisting the line.

Brake Bleeding Sequence

Standard Bleeding Order

1. Right rear (furthest from master cylinder)
2. Left rear
3. Right front
4. Left front (closest to master cylinder)

Bleeding Methods

Two-Person Method:

1. One person pumps brake pedal
2. Other person opens/closes bleeder valve
3. Repeat until no air bubbles

Vacuum Pump Method:

1. Attach vacuum pump to bleeder valve
2. Open bleeder and apply vacuum
3. Watch for air bubbles in fluid
4. Close bleeder when no bubbles appear

Pressure Bleeding:

1. Pressurize master cylinder reservoir
2. Open bleeder valves one at a time
3. Close when fluid runs clear
4. Fastest method for complete systems

Safety Checks

Pre-Road Test Checklist

• All fittings tight and leak-free
• Brake pedal is firm (not spongy)
• Master cylinder full
• No air bubbles in brake fluid
• Brake lines properly secured
• Full suspension and steering clearance verified
• Wheels properly installed and torqued

Road Test Procedure

1. Test brakes at low speed (under 20 km/h) first
2. Check for proper brake response
3. Verify no pulling to one side
4. Gradually increase speed and test again
5. Perform emergency stop test in safe area
6. Re-check all connections after test

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• ❌ Reusing crush washers - Always use new washers on banjo fittings
• ❌ Not bleeding properly - Air in system causes brake failure
• ❌ Over-tightening fittings - Can strip threads or crack components
• ❌ Wrong brake fluid - Use only specified DOT rating
• ❌ Contaminated brake fluid - Keep fluid clean and sealed
• ❌ Inadequate clearance - Lines must clear suspension/steering
• ❌ Mixing brake fluid types - Don't mix DOT 3/4 with DOT 5
• ❌ Not testing before road use - Always test at low speed first

Troubleshooting

Spongy brake pedal:

• Air in brake lines - Re-bleed system
• Brake fluid contaminated - Flush and replace
• Leak in system - Inspect all connections

Brake fluid leak:

• Check all fittings are tight
• Verify crush washers are installed (banjo fittings)
• Inspect for damaged brake lines
• Check caliper pistons aren't leaking

Brakes pull to one side:

• Air in one side of system - Re-bleed that side
• Caliper issue - Inspect and service
• Contaminated brake pads - Replace

Hard brake pedal:

• Brake booster issue (if equipped)
• Blocked brake line - Inspect routing
• Caliper seized - Service or replace

Maintenance

• Every 6 months: Visual inspection for leaks and damage
• Annually: Check all fittings, inspect brake lines
• Every 2 years: Flush and replace brake fluid
• After track use: Inspect for heat damage, check fluid level
• Any time pedal feels different: Immediate inspection required

Need Help?

Technical Support:
Call Scott at SS Racetech Rods & Customs
📞 0417 391 414
📧 sales@racereadygear.com.au

Shop Brake Line Components:

• Speedflow Braided Hose
• Speedflow AN Fittings

⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: Brake system failure can cause serious injury or death. This guide is for informational purposes only. If you're not completely confident in your ability to perform this work safely and correctly, hire a qualified professional. Always have brake work inspected by a professional before road use.

Australian Stock - Perth Dispatch
SS Racetech Rods & Customs